Mobile Base Design Details
This section is a brief description which is meant to accompany the
various drawings, which can be found
at the end of this page (along with a complete list of parts).
All dimensions are in inches, but of course you
can scale them as necessary. If you're really interested in building
directly from the plans using the parts list found later it's easiest
if you stay to the same scale.
List of drawings
The following drawings are included in the plans:
- mbase1a:
The bottom plate: this is designed to surround the
wheel housings and also support some of the DC batteries.
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- mbase2a: The middle plate: this is the main load-bearing plate;
it rests (via thrust bearings) on the three wheel housings and supports
the bottom of the steering shafts.
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- mbase3a: The top plate, detail 1: this plate supports the drive
and steering motors as well as the top of the steering shafts.
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- mbase3b: The top plate, detail 2: the remaining measurements for
the plate.
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- mbase4a: The shaft assemblies: there are three steering shafts
and three drive shafts. The shafts are concentric -- one inside the
other -- and separated by roller bearings.
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- mbase5a: The wheel assemblies.
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- mbase6d: A side view of the assembled mobile base.
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- mbase7a: The platform plate (I got off in my naming scheme; sorry);
this is the plate which supports the computing platform.
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- mbase8: The top plate of the computing platform.
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In case you're wondering and haven't figured it out, "mbase" stands
for "mobile base". When I started the drawings I didn't have a name yet
(well, OK I did, but the robot didn't).
Construction specifics
If you're starting like I did, the most important things to have first
(beside all the other parts you have to buy) is the middle and top plates
(mbase2a and mbase3a/b) and the shaft assemblies (mbase4a). You can
add the wheel assemblies next (mbase5b), followed by the remaining
plates (mbase7a and mbase1a).
- mbase2: The center opening is important primarily in that
the two DC motors extend through it. It was designed with the large
hexagonal opening when we determined that the plate would be made from
3/16'' aluminum, which would be stiff enough to not need
any central mass. The most difficult thing for us in machining this
plate, as well as plate mbase3, was boring the opening for the three
steering bearings (F-600-3). The outer diameter of these bearings was 1/8"
larger than our cutting equipment and so these had to be bored to their
final size by hand. If you have to do the same it is critical that
the center of these bearings not be offset. Too much deviation will
result in the bearings of the two plates misaligning. We missed by
a little and while it has yet to prove to be a problem in operation, it
did force us to use a larger cable chain to connect the steering shafts.
The stand-off holes in the plate were drilled to take a 6-32 screw. We
chose not to tap the holes, but that's up to you.
- mbase3: The openings in this plate for the two DC motors
are designed, if everything goes correctly, such that the tension of
the cable chain (14CCF-90E)
between the motors and the primary shafts can be adjusted
by pivoting the motor about one of the mounting screws. In practice this
has turned out to be a good and bad idea. The good news is the motors can
be held in place using only a finger tightening of the screws. The bad
news is that the motors are placed too close to one another and when in
their proper position overlap. We were able to remedy this problem
by filing down the motor mounting flanges. There is sufficient room on the
plate to reposition the motors so they clear one another, and
when time permits we will redraw the plans to correct this.
A second item to note is the placement of mounting holes for idler sprocket
(14LC28A-13) mounts.
We chose a standard length for the two main cable chains (14CCF-270E)
and our
calculations showed it would be slightly loose when placed around the
three shafts. Two sets of holes were placed on the platform to hold a
stand-off upon which we would mount the 13-tooth idler sprocket.
After assembly we found that the main transmission chain was sufficiently
tight while the main steering chain was actually too tight; as such the
the idlers were unnecessary. Depending on how your machining of the
shaft bearing holes turns out (see the mbase2 comments regarding this)
you may or may not need them.
As in mbase2, the stand-off holes in the plate were drilled to take a
6-32 screw. We used threaded aluminum spacers (one 1 1/2" (J218-ND)
and one 1/2" (J178-ND)
for each of the 12 stand-offs) to separate plates mbase2 and mbase3.
Since mbase2 was made from 3/16" aluminum, we decided to use only 1/8"
aluminum for this plate. Again, it seems from experiment that we didn't
under-design the platform.
- mbase4a: This was the trickiest part of the whole design (so far).
For me (personally) it was also the most expensive as we had to have the
local machine company (yes, our small city may have only one -- I didn't
spend that many days searching) make these parts. We chose to use aluminum
for the steering shafts while using steel for the transmission shafts.
The real key thing for these shafts is that in our design the transmission
shafts support no weight; therefore they are held in place relative to all
the other pieces by the retaining rings (Q1-31) on each end.
These rings rest against the roller bearings (NK 8/12 TN)
inside the steering shafts, so it is critical
that there be as little play as possible of these shafts. We obtained
very good results with little difficulty.
The overall shape of the steering shafts may or may not be as critical,
depending on whether you use our design or come up with a better one
(and if you do, please send it to me so I can incorporate it into these
plans). What I'm referring to is the central portion of the shaft, the bulge
in the center. One problem of the design for which I didn't have a solution
was how to attach the wheel housings to the bottom of the steering
shaft. I wanted some way to attach these which wouldn't be permanent.
One idea was to have the top opening of the wheel housing "keyed" to
slip into a notch in the shaft bottom's side wall and then held in place
with a nut or pin. When the shaft was made, I was told that due to the
thinness of the side wall this would be risky. Instead it was decided to
try to use the tension of a fastening nut on the bottom of the shaft,
pressing against the wheel housing plate and thrust bearings (B5-10), to hold
the wheel housing in place. So far this seems to work, but honestly at
this point we haven't been able to test it much.
Sorry, now how does that little story relate to the shape of the shaft?
It is now very important to have a flange on
the shaft to rest against the steering shaft bearing in mbase2 since it
is really this flange and the fastening nut which are squeezing the thrust
bearing (B5-10) and steering bearing (F-600-3) between them to hold on the
wheel housing. If we think of a better design
(or if you do) then the flange may not be as important. It is also important
to make sure the flange is not round but has some surfaces
which can be gripped by a wrench, since you need to hold it still while
tightening the fastening nut.
This final point is actually something I discovered was important after
having the shafts machined. Be sure to have the face of the shafts
flattened where the set screws of the sprockets and collars will be tightened.
You don't want to tighten them down and marr the smooth surface of the
shaft over which you want the sprockets and collars to slide. Really,
you don't want to do this.
- mbase5a: Each is made from one top piece and two side pieces,
fastened however you want. I had originally planned to use an a piece of
angled steel bolted together, but someone suggested welding them and this
worked fine. Be sure that the holes for the wheel shaft bearing
(F-165) are aligned
properly. We used 1/8" aluminum on these (again, maybe overkill but it
does work). The wheels were machined from a single piece of aluminum
with a set screw in the collar to hold the wheel in place.
- mbase1a: The bottom plate: this is designed to surround the
wheel housings and also support some of the DC batteries. We haven't made
this part yet as we don't have the DC-DC power supply working (so we
don't have the batteries and don't need support for them yet).
We plan to make it from plastic and mount it to mbase2 using 12 3" spacers
(two 1-1/2" aluminum spacers (J218-ND) end-to-end).
- mbase7a: The platform plate is still being designed. It will also
probably be made from plastic and supported by 2-1/2" spacers. The critical
part in its design will be that it is easily detachable from the
computing platform.
- Miscellaneous: there are some subtle, tricky, or otherwise
worth-noting points to make relating to the machining or assembly of other
pieces.
- The 60-tooth chain sprockets (14LP5A-60) we chose have no hubs and
must be mounted on something which can secure them to the shafts. Our
transmission shafts are 5/16" so it was easy to find hubs (PH4-61) for them,
but since our steering shafts are 3/4" we could find no hubs that large
(without them being just huge); instead we used 3/4" bore collar
clamps (CS-57). For both of these you have to be careful when attaching the
hub/clamp to the sprocket or you will end up with a wobble.
- This point bears repeating: be sure to have the face of the shafts
flattened where the set screws of the hubs and collars will be tightened.
You don't want to tighten them down and marr the smooth surface of the
shaft over which you want the hubs and collars to slide. Really,
you don't want to do this.
- The thrust bearings have a 1" inner diameter while the steering shafts
have a 3/4" outer diameter. I chose to do this since the wheel is not
centered below this shaft but 1" off to the side. This does leave the
problem of how to center the bearing about the shaft. The easiest solution
for us was to use a small piece of 3/4' ID PVC pipe which is sanded down
to fit inside the bearing. It's important that the fit not be snug or
else the bearing can't do its job.
- Some of the aluminum spacers are female on both ends and need inserts
to attach to one another. We cut the heads off 6-32 screws and epoxyed them
into one end of the female/female spacers to fix this problem. There are
other solutions to this problem but this way we don't have to worry about
losing the inserts and paid less than buying all male/female spacers.
- If you haven't done so already, you should read the section on the
"steer drive" phenomenon in the base theory
page. If you're determined never to read that, then all I can tell
you is don't be surprised.
Parts list
| Part number | Description | Qty | Price |
| Servo Systems |
| DM585 | DC Motor, 24VDC Matsushita model GMX-6MP013A
12.5:1 gearhear with two-channel quadrature encoder |
2 |
$39.50 |
| W. M. Berg |
| 14CCF-90E |
Flex-E-Pitch cable chain, 0.1475" pitch, 90 teeth |
2 |
$8.58 |
| 14CCF-270E |
Flex-E-Pitch cable chain, 0.1475 "pitch, 270 teeth |
2 |
$21.18 |
| 14LC28A-13 |
Flex-E-Pitch chain sprocket, 0.1475" pitch,
13 teeth, 0.25" bore, aluminum |
2 |
$8.73 |
| 14LC32A-20 |
Flex-E-Pitch chain sprocket, 0.1475" pitch,
20 teeth, 0.3125" bore, aluminum |
2 |
$13.34 |
| 14LP5A-60 |
Flex-E-Pitch chain sprocket, 0.1475" pitch,
60 teeth, 0.375" bore, aluminum |
8 |
$17.17 |
| M32P-2 |
Pin hub bevel gear, 0.3125" bore, 32 pitch, 1:2 ratio |
3 |
$52.03 |
| Q1-31 |
``E'' retainer ring (snap on), 0.3125" shaft |
10 |
$0.33 |
| PH4-61 |
Stake mounting gear hub, 0.3125" bore, 0.1875" rim,
pin type |
5 |
$10.62 |
| CS-53 |
Collar clamp, 0.3125" bore, steel |
3 |
$1.13 |
| CS-57 |
Collar clamp, 0.75" bore, steel |
6 |
$1.79 |
| B5-10 |
Thrust bearings, 1.0" bore |
3 |
$5.18 |
| S20-4 |
Ground precision steel shaft, 0.3125" diameter, 35" length |
1 |
$5.08 |
| King Bearing
| | Kilian F-165 |
Unground ball flanged, 0.3125" ID, 0.75" OD, 0.3125" long |
6 |
$2.40 |
| Kilian F-600-3 |
Unground ball flanged, 0.750" ID, 1.625" OD, 0.5625" long |
6 |
$6.22 |
| INA NK 8/12 TN |
Needle roller w/o inner race, 0.315" ID, 0.5906" OD, 0.472" long |
6 |
$8.50 |
| DigiKey |
| J218-ND |
Aluminum spacers, 6-32 threaded male/female, 1.5" (pack of 10) |
5 |
$3.60 |
| J178-ND |
Aluminum spacers, 6-32 threaded female/female, 0.5"
(pack of 10) |
2 |
$1.52 |
| J181-ND |
Aluminum spacers, 6-32 threaded female/female, 1.0" (pack of 10) |
1 |
$3.01 |
| Miscellaneous |
| N/A | 4mm bolts, 3/4" long |
8 |
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| N/A | 4mm washers |
8 |
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| N/A | 6-32 screws, 1" long |
40 |
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Aluminum part drawings
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